Kapiti Coast
The reflections on the shimmering waters at the beach were divine. The sea air made for a lung-strengthening walk along Paraparaumu beach with the shadow of Kapiti Island just off shore. I took in the view before jumping in the car and heading out the back of neighbouring Waikanae. Through a dense patch of native forest, a boardwalk cut a trail up the hillside before opening up onto a 4×4 track. Following this further revealed a view back down over the towns below as well as an elevated view over Kapiti Island. It was a gorgeous day but still only spring so the sun was lowering fast and there was a chill in the air to accompany the view.
I was spending the night in a motel close to the trail start but I wasn’t ready to give in for the day yet. I had had a quick glimpse at the Waikanae estuary the day before so I knew there was more to explore there. This time I decided to park upstream and follow the river bank down to the beach. It was a popular spot for a walk and as an avid bird watcher, it was a great spot for that too. Tidal effects on the river brought gulls and shags upstream, and as I got closer to the beach, the bird numbers increased.
Near the coast, a track cuts up parallel to the beach, circuiting Waimanu lagoon. At the first lagoon, a black swan family, complete with four relatively young cygnets, watched as I passed. I don’t see swans where I live, so it’s almost a shock when I do see them. Despite the lagoons being surrounded by houses, it felt so idyllic. The amount of people out for an evening walk didn’t feel oppressive and I was in no hurry despite the rapid approach of sunset.
But it was the trees that flanked the lagoons that surprised me the most: they were packed full of pied shags. I’ve seen the occasional pied shag in a tree before but I’d never seen this many before. And as the minutes ticked by, more and more came in to roost. There were lots of signs of getting ready for breeding season also, with nests old and new being occupied as well as lots of bird interactions. It was hard to pull myself away from watching the social drama.
By the time I was on the return leg it was nearly sunset, so after returning to the riverside trail, I found a spot to stop and watch. As the sun began its descent behind Kapiti Island, the river and the sky went through a spectrum of colour changes. Sunsets and sunrises are two of those daily occurrences that I usually pay no or little attention to. When the normal routine is in full swing, they are of little consequence beyond demarcating working versus not working. It’s rather sad how much I take for granted the start of and passing of almost every day of my life. But when I do stop to take it in, I realise how beautiful they can be. Especially when away from my usual situation involving the sun appearing above or disappearing below, my neighbour’s fence.
It was the cold air and the need to continue up the river in the increasing darkness that spurred me on. All the fresh air was catching up on me and I was feeling tired. The following day was to be my last in the North Island, and there was no rest for the wicked. In fact I was sharp to get going the next morning, especially waking to yet another stunning blue sky day.
Just a little south along the coast, I left my car at Paekākāriki to walk a trail I’d been wanting to do for years. The Paekākāriki Escarpment Track hugs the coast between Paekākāriki and Pukerua Bay to the south. It is also a small section of the Te Araroa Trail, a long distance route that spans the entire length of both the North and South Islands. Although you’re never far from the road, the track rises up enough in elevation to feel away from the traffic. At least the motorised traffic. The day I walked it, the foot traffic was very heavy, making some of the main lookout spots a bit crowded.
The first section mostly stays below 50 metres in altitude, but at the first small headland, it turns into a staircase-laden trail up the side of the bank, topping out over 200 metres. The sea was so calm and so blue and it glistened under the morning sun. Kapiti Island sat off shore behind me as I walked, and on the horizon I could see the South Island. For the most part, the greenery was low and shrubby but occasionally, hanging off at an angle, there was some kowhai or similar plant which attracted tui. Although tui exist around my home city of Christchurch, it’s not common to see them around that region, so I love to see them when I’m travelling away from home.
From the highest point on the trail, the view south included seeing the snowcapped Kaikoura Ranges, a group of mountains in the South Island which are halfway between Picton and Christchurch. It couldn’t have been a more perfect day for visibility. A little further on from the viewpoint, the track drops sharply about 100 metres via a series of steps. As you descend, you can see the trail continuing ahead of you, meandering away into the distance. In one spot, a slip had knocked out the trail a little, leaving a patch of debris to pick gingerly across.
After a while, the trail leads to the track’s most famous features: two swing bridges spanning a couple of gorges. Like many places these days, certain landmarks and track features become ‘Insta-famous’ meaning there can be a bit of a queue of people trying to photograph it without other people in shot. As the swing bridges have a weight limit and the track was two-way, it created a bit of a bottleneck at each one. Sensing I would be held up there, I slowed my walking speed down, hoping to avoid a crowd. It was somewhat successful but once across, there was little space to stop and enjoy the view before more people arrived looking to cross.
I had the joy of spotting more tui as I continued the gradual descent back towards the road. They’re such pretty birds in the sunshine. From a distance they look black, apart from their distinctive white bib, but up close, and in the sunshine, they shimmer a glorious blue colour. Eventually, three hours after leaving the road behind, I found myself back at the main highway once more, this time at Pukerua Bay. After grabbing an ice cream, it was time to head back to the starting point.
I cut down to Paekākāriki beach in the mid afternoon, taking a stroll along the beach next to the surf. Kapiti Island continued to dominate the seaward view but even at sea level, I still had a sneak peak of the South Island to the south. I found myself at Pukerua Bay beach as the sun began its descent towards the sea. There were lots of people milling around and some intrepid surfers just a little offshore. The sky was quick to turn orange as the clouds kept away and what transpired was one of the most beautiful sunsets that I have ever seen.
The sun looked huge as it approached the horizon, and surprisingly, it set behind the South Island. The names can be a little misleading as the northern tip of the South Island is actually to the west of the southern tip of the North Island. I knew this but hadn’t seen the reality of this orientation before. With the calm evening lapping of the waves, and the stunning spring sunset, I was utterly and emotionally invested in the moment. It’s so easy not to be present a lot of the time, especially as someone who has anxiety. I spend a lot of my time rehashing the past in my head, or stressing about a future that hasn’t happened yet. It takes moments like this to ground me. And I found myself rather sad at being at the end of my North Island road trip.
In the gathering darkness I drove south. After dinner in Porirua on route, I hit Wellington in the late evening. I’d booked an overnight sailing and a cabin to try and sleep through it. The sailing is only 3.5 hours, not enough for a sleep in normal circumstances but as this is a common crossing for freight, the ferry company allows you to board a few hours before the sailing, giving you a bit longer to grab some shut eye. It didn’t quite work as I planned, as the noises of the ship at port kept me awake, and the jolting of leaving port interrupted any slumber also. But at least I had somewhere to lie down for a rest. As the hours ticked by, Picton grew closer, and the next part of my adventure awaited.